Even after getting things settled in, and tightened down properly, on occasion it still got the dreaded ‘gimbal knock’. It especially happened when doing ledge drops or hitting square rocks head-on, when the force is torqued down hard on the head tube. I even went back and re-greased everything, and tightened it heavier than normal, and although it helped greatly, it didn’t totally alleviate the issue, and just made it rarer happenstance. I spoke with people who had the same issue as I did, and others who could rid themselves of the noise, so caveat emptor. It is a pain to change the head angle again, since it requires removing the offset cup, and pressing in a different one, and it takes more patience and attention to detail to get the unit installed and tuned properly. It is not something you can decide to change on a whim, and it certainly wouldn’t be field changeable unless you brought some prodigious tools with you. Unless your LBS performs the install, which I recommend, it does require the usual assortment of big expensive headset tools, a crown race puller and setter, head cup remover and headset press, the latter being the most expensive. I used a combination of tools for the installation, for the crown race, a homemade setter (PVC pipe) and a retrofit puller (bearing race puller) and IceToolz for the cup press and remover. Fortunately, the offset cup will most likely not be swapped out often?
What I do like about the unit is that it helped tame the slackness of the 180mm fork I was testing, and it was nice to have the angle steepened and the steering to return to a better degree of usability and control. The bearings worked just fine, and I never felt any binding from the system, and it steered smoothly on everything, without any interference to handling. The rotation was kink and bind free, and it worked like a normal high-quality headset. It does allow one to play with the geometry of a bike, allowing minor tweaks to the bottom bracket height, wheelbase, head tube angle, and the forks rake and trail. You can test with different forks, that have varying axle to crown lengths, allowing one to alter the steering and control characteristics. All of which can be accomplished by swapping the different offset cups, making the AngleSet a pretty unique, functional and useful component, for testing, designing and play. For my activity, it wasn’t so much that I wanted to alter the bike’s design, but just it to return to its default setting. Altering the angle makes the bike feel and performs differently under certain trail conditions and terrain environments, and customizes the steering attributes.
Although the AngleSet is not headtube specific, the height of the headtube can change the final outcome, as a short headtube makes a bigger offset change than a longer headtube. For example, adding the TALAS 180mm fork to my medium Ibis Mojo HD makes the stock angle 66°, and using the AngleSet 1° offset cup along with my 103mm headtube height give me an an actual 1.2 °, which works out to be an uncompensated 67.2 °, whereas a x-large frame with a 134mm comes out to 66.9 °.