Yep Components has joined the crowded ranks of dropper seatposts with their new Uptimizer. The Swiss company is run by former Formula One driver Andrea Chiesa, who also happens to be an avid mountain biker. The aircraft-grade 7075-T6 aluminum Uptomizer is cable-actuated and comes in two versions—the externally-routed ST and the internally-routed HC, with travel lengths of 125mm and 155mm, and in 30.9mm and 31.6mm diameters. The hydraulic, air-sprung post features Angst & Pfister seals and dust rings, Motorex grease and oil, and IGUS iglidur bushings. The 500-gram post utilizes a zero-offset saddle two-bolt clamp, and a joystick-style remote lever.
Yep designed their seatpost to run with a lower air pressure (130 to 180 psi) compared to the industry norm of 250 psi, which helps reduce stress on the seals and increase longevity, according to the company. Using a specific internal design and precision build, they focused on hydrodynamic problems, valve shape and oil conducts to avoid vortices and cavitations, all of which provides silent and sensitive progressive action. The synergy of their entire design means it only requires a very light touch on the joystick remote to activate the system.
The externally cable actuated ST version (shown above) connection is located in a small compartment on the collar, much like the KS Lev system, so it’s stationary relative to the saddle’s up and down movement, avoiding interference issues with legs, tires, and linkages. The internally cable actuated HC version connects directly to the bottom of the post, much like the KS Lev Integra, creating a stealth or internal cable routing system.
The ST version which I tested, can have the actuator collar-box located in either a front or backward facing position, depending on personal preference. Once the positioning is decided, you take off the industrial-strength rubber band on the collar-box, take off the cover, and pop the cable end piece into the actuator lever, and reverse the process for completion. You then cut the housing and cable to the required lengths, snap the remote onto the handlebar, build the joystick remote lever, thread the cable and housing though the joystick, and clamp everything down to specs. It was a pretty simple and fast process to install everything, and I only had to adjust the cable once after things settled in.
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