The bike locking system for the rack uses a very innovative integrated bike cable lock, in which the cable lock retracts into the arms when not in use.
To lock the bike, just pull out the cables from their arm receptacle (rear tire cap), stick them up through the bikes rear triangles, and snap the lock and pin together. I worry about my bikes, so if I am going to be leaving the bikes for any period of time, I attach my own long cable lock through the triangles, and the front wheel. I know that’s a paranoid, but better extra secure then gone! I do wish it had some lock mechanism for the front wheels?
If you need to access the rear of your vehicle, just pull the gold lever underneath the main rack (by the hitch/receiver), and the rack rotates down enough to egress into the back hatch or door. Originally, I was unable to lower my trucks (Toyota Tundra) tailgate without it touching the NV when it was in its flat or tilted positions, but when I got an upgraded hitch (when I broke the cinch tight knob) it had a shortened stack height (hitch to cradle), so it now clears it by 2+ inches.
The bike stand attachment is called the Trail Doc, and it uses a rudimentary, albeit functional clamp system. To use the bike stand, you put the bike rack in the upward position, and then loosen the quick release lever and move the clamp arm up or down per requirements. Towards the back of the clamp arm, is a small lever that allows rotation of the clamp head between either a vertical or horizontal orientation. I played around with the Trail Doc, and clamped it on the top tube and seatpost, and did some minor maintenance without any problems. It is an effective bike stand, and is a nice addition to a bike rack for doing repair or tune up work while at the trailhead.
I do wish the Trail Doc had some sort of lock for security purposes, else you need to remove it, and store it inside your vehicle to prevent theft. Another small point of contention is the L shaped screw that you use to open and close the clamp head. When you open the clamp towards its maximum size (for oversized frame tubing) the end of the screw sort of falls back behind the slot, and gets kind of caught, so I think just a tad longer screw would solve that issue?