The brakes come with full length lines, so they need to be cut to size, dependent on user preference and bike geometry. I prefer my brakes set up in moto style, with the front brake on the right side. Many years of motorcycle riding has my brain pretty attuned to using the right hand, and in addition, my right has finer motor skills for precision braking.
The lever/reservoir assembly was easy to install, since the Quickfit split clamp doesn’t require the grips to come off. Undo the bolt on the Quickfit, which causes the clamp to swing open, and place it in the desired location (inside or outside shifter pods) on the handlebars, and close it shut and thread the bolt back in. The caliper setup was easy due to the pivoting banjo, which made the hose angle adjusting a snap.
I measured the desired length multiple times (not a place to screw up), and cut them with a sharp set of cutters. Holding the cut section up high to prevent any errant air bubbles, I slid on the sleeve nut followed by the olive, and tapped in the hose insert with a plastic mallet, and finally threaded the sleeve nut into the brake lever, tightening with the proper torque.
Neither brake leaked after the hose shortening, nor did they require any bleeding. The new EBT (Easy Bleed Technology) system which uses a port on top of the reservoir is easy to use, and I have bled my Marta SL Mags a number of times, so I can vouch for the simplicity and ease of the system. Although, bleeding brakes are still like getting poked in the eye, and my preference is non compliance. Basic bleed instructions: level reservoir, unscrew port bolt, insert syringe, unscrew caliper bolt, screw on a filled syringe, push fluid from bottom to top, cycling until bubbles are gone.
For the entire testing period, I used the Louise in a 180/160 combination, on my new loyal steed, the All Mountain Yeti ASR 7. The Colorado terrain is predominantly rocky conditions, with many sections of long steep downhills, rock gardens, and ugly loose gravel.
To bed-in the rotors and pads, I drove up and down the street, accelerating, followed by medium braking, repeating this process about 20 times, and then the same scenario for 10 times with a firmer pressure. This helps burn in rotors, which integrates pad compound onto their surface, and burnish or polish the pads, both of which give rise to better performance and longevity. The BAT (Bite Adjust Technology), which is the red knob on the lever, allows an adjustment of how far the lever strokes (independent of lever reach) before the pad’s contact the rotor, so you can fine tune where the lever stroke applies the power. The lever reach is adjusted by using a 2.5mm Allen key in the port next to the BAT, which is sort of a pain, and I wish they had on the fly adjuster instead? I preferred a set up with a long reach and a firm bite. The combination of BAT and lever reach allows an entire slew of tunability, dependent on user preference, terrain, bike geometry, etc.