Sun Ringlé Charger Pro Review

Pro Reviews Wheels

Measured Specs

Weight:

  • Valve stem – 6.4 grams
  • Adapters – 9mm: 39 grams, 15mm: 35.2 grams, 20mm: 30.4 grams
  • Front- 9mm: 792.7 grams, 15mm: 788.9 grams, 20mm: 784.1 grams
  • Rear – 900.4 grams
  • Total- 9mm: 1693.1 grams, 15mm: 1689.3 grams, 20mm: 1684.5 grams

Widths:

  • Outside – 28mm
  • Inside – 22.6mm

sunrim

Setup
I installed a set of normal tires on the rims, and initially tried 40-50 psi to get them to pop, but it took 80 psi for the beads to seat. (Note: this was the line in pressure, tires were only filled to 40 psi). I let the tires sit as long as possible to stretch out the carcass, and then pulled the valve core and filled them with the supplied 2 ounce bottle of sealant. I re-inflated, and shook the tire while rotating it to get the sealant up into the sidewalls. After a couple of minutes laying on each side (after doing the shake step) the tires were topped off to 40 psi to sit overnight. I tried a couple of UST tires, and they popped on without any problems, though some of the sealant from the previously installs made the job easier, and kept them sealed better (and longer).

sun_adapters

I was easily able to install/remove the 9mm and 15mm adapters on the front hub, since they simply slide into the slot, but I was a bit confused on the 20mm set? It turns out to be a very simple, albeit primitive, process. Just place the 20mm adapter into the slot followed by the ring, then using either a 1 inch PVC coupler (my fave) or a socket, give it a good couple of hits with a mallet, and the ring seats nice and tight! To take it off, insert a 20mm axle into the adapter about a 1/2 inch, and ever so slightly lever it sideways and the ring pops off. Thanks to Scott at Sun Ringlé for the pointers on what he calls the Caveman approach, which I happen to find effective, “Simple is, is simple does.” I think it’s really nice that the front wheel comes with all the adapters you could need (9, 15 and 20mm), while most manufacturers charge you extra for additional versions.

sun_20mm_all

The rear hub came as a 9mm x 135mm, but you can purchase an adapter kit for 12mm x 135mm or 12mm x 142mm, for $20 each. The non drive adapter slide off and on, while the drive side is threaded on. To install/remove the drive side adapter, mesh the adapter kit tool into the notch on the non drive side axle. Then use a 17mm cone wrench on the slot of the drive side adapter to tighten/loosen, while holding the opposing non drive side tool. It is a simple and innovative idea that allows their hub to be used in the vast majority of the rear axle system on the market today.

sun_rear_adaps

Next » Impressions & Bottomline

About the author: Brian Mullin

Brian has been part of the Mtbr team since 2007, where he has become an integral member of the review and test staff, specializing in technical articles. He likes to push the limits in all the sports he obsesses in, whether it's mountain biking, whitewater kayaking, extreme skiing, or sport climbing. He takes those same strengths and a good dose of insanity to his reviewing and writing on mountain biking products, creating technical, in-depth and hyperbolic articles. Whenever he's not on the bike, he might be found watching MotoGP racing, otherwise look for him out on extremely technical singletrack.


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  • Ecogeek says:

    Easton Havoc also comes w 20mm front adapters included. There may be others.
    But, these wheels look great. Lighter than the Havoc. If I did not already have a set of Havocs, I would def put these on the menu.
    Mind you, they would need to be on sale cos the Havocs can be had for $400.
    Tubeless is still a PITA IMO. I like tubes cos I don`t like spending any more of my time than nec messing (literally in the case of tubeless and sealant) w tires when I could be…whining on a forum! Lol.
    What seatpost is on that Yeti BTW?

  • Chris H says:

    The seatpost looks like a Kindshock i950-R. I have one. Works great!!

  • Brian Mullin says:

    That’s the Specialized Command Post. If it takes me to much effort to go tubeless, I just skip it, and insert a tube. This set of wheels seemed to work pretty easily, and I didn’t have any issues with any of the tires I tried.

  • Cabin John says:

    Please tell me those are stickers on the rims and can be pulled off. Good god.

  • Brian Mullin says:

    I imagine they will come off, a blow dryer would help, plus you save weight!

  • Brad says:

    How do you like the rubber queen/trail kings? Did you run these tubeless and if so were they the ust or regular versions?

  • Brian Mullin says:

    They are the normal RQ/TK 2.4′s. The UST version is pretty heavy, and don’t have as nice of a tactile feel. I run the RQ/TK tubeless, and they are one of the best tires I have ever used. They have been on multiple bikes, wheels, etc., longer than any other tire, and I have worn through a couple of them due to lot’s of use. They are the tire I use to cross compare other tires. They’re tough, with great feel, excellent traction, etc.

  • Dustin Sifford says:

    @Brian
    So after a year are you still happy with these?
    How many rides have they been on (if you know) and how much have you abused them?
    Are the hoops still true?
    Did the pawls explode? (I go through freehub mechanisms for some reason)
    Does the front rotor stay centered when the bike is leaned on edge?
    Did the bearings hold up to wet conditions?

  • Brian Mullin says:

    I am still happy with these wheels, and I still keep abusing them, and they are running fine. No issues with bearings (not that much wetness in Colorado), pawls, nor loss of true (in fact they haven’t ever needed to be adjusted). They are one of the few long term wheels that I am still testing. They aren’t the stiffest wheel I have ever tested, but they are tough and durable, inexpensive, light, and accelerate well.

  • Ross Sapienza says:

    I know it’s a little late but I have a question. What about the pawls, how many in the rotor and are the driver teeth inside the hub? Thanks.

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